CHAPTER 4 KWAHERI (GOODBYE) KENYA
From Falls to Farewells: Wrapping Up Our Kenyan Adventure
To be honest, Thomson’s Falls didn’t quite live up to the hype. I’ve seen grander ones, and the constant presence of Maasai tribals and touts asking for a fee to click pictures dampened the charm. Word of caution, don’t be fooled by the friendly poses; there’s usually a price attached.
We had a long drive ahead to Nairobi, and as always, I kept Moses, our guide, company with a flurry of questions. At one point, I went quiet, and he instantly asked if everything was okay. That’s Moses for you, observant and kind.
Something curious caught my eye along the way. For the sixth time on this trip, I saw men lying prostrate on the roadside in a very specific “X” position – arms and legs splayed. My first thought: Are these drunkards passed out? It’s not an unusual sight in India, after all. But Moses explained something far more humbling. These were weary travelers, some of whom had walked for days, either searching for work or trying to sell their goods. When exhaustion hits, they simply collapse and sleep wherever they can. The unspoken rule? Don’t disturb them. Let them rest and continue their journey.
We passed through several counties- Nyeri, Laikipia, Kisumu (or was that near Masai Mara?), and Narok. The order blurred, but the landscapes never failed to charm. At Subukia County, we stopped at a Rift Valley viewpoint. We were traveling on the A104, a major highway in Kenya. Moses explained the road system: “A” for international trunk roads, “B” for national, “C” for primary, and so on.
Soon we hit a massive traffic jam and had to divert onto a dusty, chaotic off-road path. Vehicles formed four messy, self-created lanes with a few good samaritans stepping in to direct traffic. We crossed Kikuyu town, home to Kenya’s largest tribe. Kenya’s first President, Jomo Kenyatta, and his son, Uhuru Kenyatta, both belong to the Kikuyu community.
A stretch lined with towering Cypress trees came next. Moses shared that this area was once infamous for highway robberies. Thankfully, those days are long gone.
By late evening, we rolled into Nairobi, checked into our hotel, and headed straight to Carnivore Restaurant, a must-visit for any adventurous foodie. Think: chicken, lamb, beef, pork, turkey… and the exotics – crocodile, ostrich, and yes, ox balls. A feast fit for the wild-hearted. Bellies full, we slept like babies.
Originally, our plan was to visit the Masai Market, but we called the agency and paid extra to swap it out for something more exciting….The Giraffe Centre and David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage.
Nairobi surprised us with its green and clean appearance. Sujith was curious about the city’s upscale neighborhoods, so we drove through Arboretum Road and Langata Road, passing the State House and some prominent universities along the way.
We considered visiting Bomas of Kenya (Bomas means homestead or livestock enclosure), a cultural center showcasing tribal dances and traditional homes, but with limited time, we made a mental note to save it for our next visit.
Our route took us to Karen, a leafy suburb named after Karen Blixen, the Danish author of Out of Africa, who lived here for 17 years, running a coffee plantation. Her expansive farmland is now home to universities and posh residences.
Along the way, we were delighted by the quirky, brightly painted Matatus – Kenya’s version of our Chennai “share autos,” only louder, more vibrant, and pulsing with music and energy. Packed to the brim, they truly are the lifeblood of local transport.
At the Giraffe Centre, we got to feed the elegant Rothschild Giraffes. A volunteer could identify each one by name and personality. I eavesdropped (okay, I joined in) on a guide’s talk to a group of British tourists and asked how giraffes eat thorny Acacia leaves. Turns out, giraffes are pros at navigating the thorns, and even if they get pricked, their saliva is antiseptic! Nature really thinks of everything.
I even clicked a picture of the giraffe list, names, ages, and all. What a charming bunch!
Next up was the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, open to the public only between 12:00 and 1:00 pm feeding time! It was crowded, and I initially had to peek between the elbows and hips of two tall men in front of me. Thankfully, a kind woman moved, and I got front-row views of the adorable chaos. The baby elephants were splashing, rolling in the sand, and charging toward their milk bottles like toddlers to candy. They gulped the milk in seconds.
The staff shared stories about how each elephant ended up there, many rescued from poaching or abandonment. They explained the sponsorship process and how the elephants are rewilded once they turn three. We were there for nearly an hour, hearts full.
Lunch was a delightful Indo-Chinese fusion, and then it was time to head to the airport.
We exchanged numbers and email addresses with Moses, our fantastic guide, and thanked him for being such a significant part of this journey.
Kwaheri, Kenya
And just like that, my peregrinations came to an end.
However, not without one last twist….the airport lost our luggage, and we waited nearly two hours for it to arrive. Kenya clearly didn’t want our adventure to end!
This was more than a vacation; it was a memory etched in wildlife, landscapes, laughter, learning, and the warmest people. A trip that left us changed, even in the subtlest ways.
Farewell folks. Until next time.
